NYX Electric!

Richardo Willlie converted a TD NYX to 10 cell electric. He sent these two photos and will send me some more soon. The conversion included:

From Richardo:

On my model, I cut a square hole at the trailing edge of the fuse, under the wing, where I mounted a servo tray for the two tail servos. The original pushrods and tubes were cut at this area and used from the servos to the tail.

Removing the aluminum adjustable tow hook was done by heating the aluminum piece using a high wattage soldering iron (access trough the servo hole on top of the fuse under the wing) I also heated the bottom of the fuse with my monokote heat gun. Once it is real hot (not hot enough to melt the epoxy on the fuse) I could easily twist the aluminum tow hook base out with a pair of pliers. The heat softened the epoxy enough to get it off easily.

I took out the forward servo tray that is epoxied into the fuse under the canopy and also removed the ballast tube. Careful use of a sanding drum on my Dremel cleaned up the remaining epoxy inside the fuse.

The Nose of the NYX is very narrow and slightly oval. I choose an Aveox 27-39-1.5 motor with a 3.4 to one gearbox as this motor can put out 600 watts and is very narrow. I use a 30 mm. spinner which puts the motor almost at the very front of the fuse. I fabricated a firewall for the nose. After cutting off about 1.25 inches of the nose, the round firewall was pushed into the nose and this managed to make the slightly oval fuse round.

The battery pack fits where the ballast tube use to be, back to the servo tray at the trailing edge of the wing. The aluminum tow hook mount was in the way of the battery pack.

I use a 1000 Mah Rx pack. The Receiver and the RX battery fit behind the servos (to the rear of the fuse). I calculated the distance the Rx and Rx pack would occupy and then made an oval shaped piece of EPP foam which was coated with some “Goop” and pushed back in the fuse to the correct distance. This serves the dual purposes of fixing the pushrod tubes and keeping the Rx and Rx battery from going further to the rear. Once the servo tray is mounted to two 1./4 inch square wood beams epoxied to the sides of the fuse, the Rx and Rx battery can not move forward or backward. The balance point of the model with this set up is exactly the same as the glider version.

I use a 10 cell Sanyo 2600 NMH pack and an 18/10 Graupner prop. My power system draws 75 amps. I get about 5 or 6 climbs to winch launch altitude at a climb angle of about 60 degrees.

The plane flies like the glider version with ballast and is great fun to practice with as I can fly it right behind my house where I have a small garden but not enough room for even a small high start.