All Molded Hi Performance 60" Slope model.

The Nemesis/Mini Nyx was designed for speed and racing from the beginning. The Nemesis/Mini Nyx has an integral ballast tube and strong all molded wing with a carbon spar. The model is very complete and only takes a few hours of careful assembly to be ready to fly. The radio compartment is small so micro/mini servos and a small receiver are required. The wings will take a HS81MG servo or similar if you sand some of the case down. The JR 241 servos will fit without modifications. And are much easier to install. Try and use servos with at least 19oz of torgue for the ailerons and elevators.

General note on building molded models:
" Start with a clean workbench and cover it with some foam to protect the finish of the wing as you work. Be careful not to roll the wing on any debris that can dent the skin. Be careful using epoxy and CA so you won't add any to the surface of the model during assembly. See for the latest details on assembly.

" Cut open the servo bay and leave 1/16 of the joggle to support the servo cover. Use a sharp hobby knife and be careful not to score the wing. Leave as large a radius in the corners as possible to eliminate any stress points in the cutout.
" I recommend that you epoxy some 4 or 6 ounce fiberglass cloth to the inside of the upper wing skin to stiffen the area and protect the skin when you epoxy the aileron servo in place. Use slow cure epoxy (2 hour). Let cure.
" Epoxy in the brass control horns in the pre-drilled holes. Make sure that both horns are the same height. Some of the kits have extra long horns. Cut them down so the linkage will fit within the servo covers if you find these in your kit.
" Locate the spar from the servo bay and project the aft edge of the spar to the center of the wing. Cut a hole with a hobby knife about ¼ behind the spar in the center of the span for the servo wires to exit. Debur the hole. There are 2 balsa ribs in the wing root spaced over the fuse sides. Poke a hole through each rib so the servo wire will pass through. Hook up the servos and wrap the connection with heat shrink or tie with dental floss and pull the wires through with some music wire.
" You can use the plugs from the servo extensions or connect both wires to a 4 pin deans or Multiplex connector between the wing wires and the receiver mounted in the nose.
" Tape the servos in position for now and start on the fuse.

" If you use the JR241 servos then you will need to install hardwood servo rails in front of the ballast tube. Place the servos in front of the ballast tube and place with the receiver next then the battery in the nose. It is a tight fit. Once you get everything in mark the location for the servo rails. Use 'Household Goop" to bond in the hardwood rails.
" Center the servos. Install the v-tail, hook up the ball links and center each control surface. Cut the pushrod to length and solder a brass coupler to the pushrod wire with enough room for the clevis or use a Z bend or some DuBro 845 mini EZ connectors if you can find them.

Final Assembly:
" Plug in the aileron wires. Bolt on the wing and power up the model. Center the servo trims and place the servo arm 1 spline forward from center toward the LE.
" Screw on the servo arm and epoxy the servo in the wing. Make sure it is perfectly aligned with the control horn. Use a dime size amount of 5-minute epoxy and micro balloons. Do the same for the other servo.
" Hook up the linkage and adjust the clevis for neutral.
" Tape the servo covers in place.
Set up:
" Add lead to the nose to get the CG 3.0 inches from the LE.
" Adjust the v-tail for .3" up and .25" down elevator. Measured from the tip.
" Adjust for .3" each way for rudder.
" Set the Aileron for .7" up and .4" down measured from the aileron root.
" Set up .5" up of aileron crow for landing.

" Charge up the batteries and do a ground check.
" Check each control surface for no slop and no binding.
" Check that each control surface will come back to center.
" Go to your favorite slope and tell the foamys to get out of the way.
" Toss the Nemesis/Mini Nyx out and be gentle on the controls until you get a feel for the model.
" Test the stall at altitude.
" Make a few landing passes.
" Make a mental note of any changes you want then land.
" Make the changes. Repeat.

" Make ballast slugs from x/x steel bar and a set from aluminum and a few from a wood dowel.
" Add any combination to get the desired amount in the Nemesis/Mini Nyx. Be sure to keep the CG. Do this first at home on the bench so you know what to do at the slope.

Slope Racing:
The Nemesis/Mini Nyx is an awesome weapon for 60" class slope racing. When racing man on man model set up is very important. Set the control throws so the Nemesis/Mini Nyx cannot be over controlled during the race. Use the dual rates for racing and high rates for aerobatics and landing.
Add ballast if the conditions are bumpy or very strong. The proper amount to add will come with experience. The more ballast you add the larger the turn radius becomes and if the course is short you are better off racing a little light to keep the turns tight.

Dynamic Soaring:
Go for it! The Nemesis/Mini Nyx is very strong and can take the abuse of Dynamic Soaring. As always use your head and fly within the limits of you and your equipments ability.

COMPOSITE SPECIALTIES 2195 Canyon Dr #D Costa Mesa, CA 92627 949-645-7032


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