General Assembly of Molded Models.
By Tom Copp
If you'd like to see specific assembly details of a few models go here.
This instruction sheet will cover about 98% of the models available. Most of the new molded ships share similar servo installations for the wings. I placed them into types as follows:
|Control||Hinge Location||Control Horn location||Servo arm direction|
Where Top refers to the the Top surface of the wing.
Find your configuration type on the table for your model and set up your Flaps and Ailerons like the example drawing.
Before installing wing servos you need to have a few things ready to go.
A good base program ready with your servos centered electronically and mixing assigned. If possible use a program that you know works well with a similar type model. You will be surprised at how well one program will work with another model. Take out all the biased control throws. i.e. If your last program had more throw one way than the other to offset a mechanical linkage problem, equal the throws now. You don't want to add confusion to your new model. Once you have a GOOD 6 servo set up with all servos centered and no biased mixing SAVE IT as a base template for when you set up new models.
Transmitter switches and trims in the normal flight mode.
If you are attaching the servos to the inside skin epoxy a carbon or glass patch to reinforce the skin where the servo will live. See drawing. If you have molded servo pockets then lightly sand the paint to remove any mold release and allow any adhesive to stick.
A wire harness installed in the wing and to the receiver with a fully charged battery.
Servo covers. These dictate the final position of the servos and whether the servo output shaft is forward or aft depending on how the linkage will fit within the servo cover.
General Info: I know this is basic but use it as a refresher.
Ailerons move "UP" more than "DOWN" when measured at the TE. (trailing edge)
Flaps move "Down" more than "UP"
Rudder TE will move Left for "Left" Same is true for rudder input for v-tails.
Elevator TE will move UP for "UP" Same is true for elevator input for v-tails.
|Click on pictures below for larger picture.|
|Wing Servo install|
|I tied off the extra wire length and secured the connection with some wax string or good hi heat tape.|
|Make sure the servo cover will fit.|
|Especially here. You might have to flip the servo if your covers are different. Check all this before you mix epoxy.|
| Ready to
epoxy in. Your radio is set up, centered and checked for travel and direction....
I usually place the servo arm 1 spline forward on the aileron for more up travel.
|5-minute epoxy and cabosil. That's all you need to form a good bed for the servo.|
|Gently push the servo into position. Apply light pressure to the servo arm side first to squeeze the epoxy away from the arm. You want a small bead of epoxy to ooze out from around the perimeter of the servo.|
| Measure the
height of the control horn and epoxy it in place. Yes the hole is threaded but
you should epoxy the horn in to get a 100% attachment to the control surface.
Make sure the other side is exactly the same.
|All done less cover. After the link is centered and the radio is completely programmed I place a drop of CA on the threaded rod to eliminate any slop in the clevis.|
| Flap control
The wiper is relieved to allow the clevis to open and capture the horn. There is no top fairing on the Pike, the connection is almost flush with the top surface.
|Click HERE for some control throws for F3X models|